It doesn't matter If you are looking for something more robust compared to your current skincare routine, or just starting out. Korean skincare is a great way to slowly see what works for you. Since, Korean skin care has multiple steps, the cleanser you know and love might not be enough. For example, double cleansing might not be the right fit for all skin types, but since the core benefit of Korean skincare revolves around hydrating, and moisturizing, it really depends on your needs. There are many brands that state the same thing, but the reality is that flawless or glass skin is not achieved from one skincare brand. But rather multiple. In this article, we'll show you how to create your own custom Korean Skincare starter kit that will not only become your go to skincare routine, but also nourish your skin in the process.
What Makes Korean Skincare Unique?
Korean skincare is renowned for its holistic approach, focusing on maintaining a healthy, well-hydrated dermis and preventing issues before they arise. Innovations such as BB creams, sheet masks, and cushion compacts have their origins in Korea, reflecting the country's position at the forefront of beauty technology. The emphasis on natural ingredients, such as ginseng, tea tree oil, and snail mucin, showcases the blend of traditional wisdom and modern science that characterizes K-beauty. It isn't something mysterious, and it is certainly nothing to be intimidated by. To put it simply, it is a series of steps similar to the western skincare routines, but with more steps.
Identifying Your Skin Type
Understanding your skin type is crucial for selecting products that will be most beneficial. Whether you have oily, dry, combination, or sensitive skin, there's a Korean skincare routine designed for you. This section will guide you through the steps to identify your skin type and introduce the concept of "skin concern," which goes beyond skin type to address specific issues like acne, dullness, or fine lines.
So, where do we start? You should already have a good idea of what type of skin you have. But, let's go over it again in the next section. Depending on that, you can add, subtract, or exchange products within the steps. Since, the main idea is to balance the skin, the targeted skin type is normal skin. This should give you an idea of what kinds of results to expect. For example, depending on your skin type, using a oil, gel, or foam based cleanser can make or break your skin feeling refreshed, but also making sure that it doesn't strip away all the natural oils in your skin.
How do I Identify My Skin Type?
Let's first identify what types of skin are typically categorized. There are five skin types, which include, dry, oily, combination, normal, and sensitive skin. While, sensitive skin can be categorized further into the other four skin areas, we will be incorporating it into all material in this article.
Dry Skin tends to be associated with premature aging, wrinkles, and translucent skin. It is usually characterized as dull and flaky. It is also be tight and appear rough. But, in some cases, it can be mistaken with dehydrated skin, but, there are simple at home tests to identify if that is the case. This test involves pinching you cheek, or the top of your hand. Depending on how long it takes to "bounce" back to it's original shape, you can tell if you have a dehydration problem.
Oily Skin is characterized as the over production of sebum, a.k.a. oil.
Combination Skin tends to be oily in the T-Zone (forehead, nose and chin) areas.
Normal Skin as it implies, neither too oily or dry. In other words, balanced. But, that doesn't mean that it is find with any skin routine.
Two Ways to Quickly Figure Out Your Skin Type
Both of these tests can be done at home, and are free to quite affordable. The first test is waiting, and the second test is a blotting test. To some it might sound unusual, but just trust the process for now.
Test 1: Waiting for 30 Minutes
After cleansing with your preferred cleanser. don't apply anything else. Leaving your face bare. Wait for around 30 minutes. Depending on your skin type you will notice that your face is shiny to tight, or a combination of both. With that in mind you can determine the type of skin you have.
Test 2: Blotting Sheets
In this test, you'll be doing the same thing as above, but instead of seeing the results, you'll be using a blotting sheet. This will be a better way to actually determine your skin type. As they say, seeing is believing, and it certainly applies in this test.
The Essential Steps of a Korean Skincare Routine
Now that you have an idea of what your skin type is. Let's continue determining the right steps for you! As you may already know the Korean skincare routine is famous for its thoroughness, typically involving multiple steps that include cleansing, toning, essence application, treatments with serums or ampoules, moisturizing, and sun protection. This comprehensive approach ensures that the skin is deeply cleansed, well-nourished, and adequately protected throughout the day and night.
The Role of Cleansers in Achieving Glass Skin
The double cleanse, starting with an oil-based cleanser followed by a water-based cleanser, is a hallmark of Korean skincare. This method effectively removes makeup, SPF, and pollutants, setting the stage for a clean canvas that can fully absorb the benefits of subsequent products. But, is this absolutely necessary for all skin types? The simple answer, it depends on the type of cleansers you use. As there are 3 common types of cleansers, it will certainly be different. Let's go over the types of cleansers:
Oil Based
As these oils are lipophilic. This means that oil attracts other oils. This is a great way to take all that makeup off your face. As oil attracts other oils, this oil based cleanser will allow all the sebum, makeup, and other oils to be cleared out.
Interestingly, oil based cleansers are great for oily skin as well. Since, oil attracts other oils, but leaves enough oil on the skin barrier to be balanced. This way, the skin does not go into overdrive when all the natural oils and nutrients are stripped off.
Skin type: Dry or Oily Skin
Gel Based
Gel based cleansers are great since it is water based, but at the same time, have moisturizing ingredients such as glycerine. This means that while it washes away the oils on your face, it also leaves a little oil on so that it doesn't dry out your skin completely. This is especially great for combination and dry skin. But, as mentioned in the oil based cleanser section, oily skin can have benefits from it.
Skin Type: Dry, Combination, or Oily Skin
Foam Based
All skin types can use this, but with a caveat, the other steps have to be replace the natural oils that have been stripped. Foam based cleansers are great for oily and combination skin types. As it is water based. But, unlike gel based cleansers, this does not have any moisturizing ingredients.
Skin Type: Oily or Combination
As you dig deeper into the various types of cleansers, you can probably find a combination that works for your needs. While, double cleansing isn't for everyone, if you want to give it a try, using the right combination may give you positive results. This will reduce the risk of stripping all the natural oils from your skin. For example, Oil and gel based cleansers for dry skin types, instead of the foam based cleansers.
Toning: The Key to Balanced and Hydrated Skin
Using toners is a crucial step in providing many benefits. These benefits include, remove residual impurities, balance the skin's pH levels and boost hydration. This process prepares the skin to absorb essences, serums, and moisturizers more effectively. Like cleanswes there are
Using toners is a crucial step in providing many benefits. These benefits include, remove residual impurities, balance the skin's pH levels (4.7) and boost hydration. This process prepares the skin to absorb essences, serums, and moisturizers more effectively. Including this step in your skincare routine may smoothen, and soften your skin. But, what about astringents? Should we consider this as a viable option as well?
Often times, we would say stay away from astringents. While it may offer better oil removal, the side effects and limitations may be more work and cause of concern compared to toners. Limitations for astringents may include, besides the fact that it should be used for oily skin types due to its harsher drying results, it also should not be used on "skin condition like eczema or rosacea, open sores or wounds, sunburn, and acne." While, toners side effects are mostly caused by overuse rather than allergic reactions or sensitive skin, which is also a cause.
There are three types of toners:
- Alcohol Based
- glycerin or glycol Based
- Water Based
To simplify this generally for each category, use glycerin or glycol based toners on dry skin, water based toners on mostly all skin types, and alcohol based toners on oily skin. While, this may be too simplistic, you should always patch test for allergic or irritation at all times.
Essence and Serums: The Heart of Korean Skincare
Essence: The Hydration Amplifier
An essence is a lightweight, hydrating liquid designed to moisturize the skin deeply and prepare it for the subsequent skincare steps. Think of it as a primer for your skincare, enhancing the skin's receptivity to the products that follow. Essences typically contain a high concentration of active ingredients aimed at hydrating, repairing, and revitalizing the skin at a cellular level. "Essences are typically more lightweight and less concentrated than serums but more hydrating and nourishing than toners." This makes sense since in the golden rule of skincare is to apply lighter(liquid) products first, and heavier (thick cream) products last. As essence are known for their watery consistency, which allows for quick absorption and immediate hydration. Which makes them added in as one of the first steps.
The primary goal of an essence is to balance the skin's moisture level. By effectively preparing the skin, essences facilitate the deeper penetration of the products applied afterward, maximizing their efficacy. Ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and various plant extracts are common in essences, offering a boost of hydration and nourishment.
Serum: The Concentrated Powerhouse
Serums, on the other hand, are more concentrated formulations designed to target specific skin concerns such as aging, dark spots, and acne. Packed with active ingredients, serums penetrate deeply into the skin to deliver potent benefits. Their texture can range from watery to gel-like, but what sets serums apart is their ability to address particular issues with high precision and effectiveness.
Synergy in Skincare
The beauty of incorporating both essences and serums into a skincare routine lies in their synergy. While the essence prepares and hydrates the skin, making it more receptive, the serum delivers targeted treatment and nourishment. This layered approach not only maximizes the benefits of each product but also embodies the Korean skincare philosophy of nurturing and respecting the skin.
The Magic of Sheet Masks for Instant Hydration
Sheet masks are a staple in Korean skincare, offering a quick and effective way to hydrate the skin. Infused with various essences, these masks provide a range of benefits, including soothing, brightening, and anti-aging effects. This should be applied once a week. But, note that your skin will quickly feel dry afterwards. Which is why this skincare routine process is important.
Eye Creams and Eye Patches
Eye cream and eye patches are both targeted skincare products designed to address specific concerns around the delicate eye area, such as dark circles, puffiness, fine lines, and dryness. While they share some common goals, they differ in their application, ingredients, and how they fit into a skincare routine. Understanding these differences can help you decide how and when to use each product effectively.
Since, skin around the eyes are thinner and more delicate than the rest of the face, eye creams are designed to address these issues with a gentle yet effective approach. They often contain active ingredients aimed at reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, dark circles, and puffiness.
Eye patches are designed for temporary relief and immediate effects, offering intense hydration, cooling, and sometimes even a tightening effect to the under-eye area. They are soaked in serum and can be made of hydrogel. They are particularly good for addressing puffiness, dark circles, and signs of fatigue, providing a quick boost of ingredients directly to the area of concern.
If you're deciding whether to use an eye cream or eye patches, consider your primary concerns and preferences. Eye creams are essential for daily maintenance and long-term care. It addresses a variety of issues with consistent use. Eye patches are best for quick fixes, intense hydration, and immediate visible results. Many people find using both products at different times or on different days allows them to achieve the best results for their under-eye area.
Moisturizing: Locking in Hydration for Glass Skin
Moisturizers seal in all the hydration and active ingredients applied in previous steps. They come in various formulations to suit different skin types, from lightweight gels for oily skin to richer creams for dry skin. But, that is not all they do, moisturizers work by either drawing moisture into the skin (humectants), sealing moisture within the skin (occlusives), or restoring moisture content in the skin's outer layer (emollients). For glass skin, you'll want a product that can do all three effectively.
The Importance of SPF and Sun Protection in Korean Skincare
Sunscreen is non-negotiable in Korean skincare, applied daily to protect the skin from UV damage, which can lead to premature aging and hyperpigmentation. Korean sunscreens are known for their lightweight, non-greasy formulas that offer high protection without a white cast.
While, sunscreen is important, proper application is even more important. We recommend higher SPF the better. It may seem obvious, but the significance is vastly different due to many factor. You can read more about a study conducted on the same topic here. Since, consumers typically apply less sunscreen than the amount used to measure SPF in laboratory settings, resulting in actual protection that is less than the labeled SPF value. For more information click here.
Summary
This comprehensive look at finding your Korean Skincare routine has covered how to determine your skin type, to more specific topics such as, what cleanser is right for you, and what type of sun protection you should look out for. But, this is only the start. Your skincare regimen will change over time, and your skin will thank you for taking care of it.